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Relax with a lawn that looks after itself, while you save time and money by not having to mow, fertilize or water. Grow a blend of 7 fescue grasses that thrives in a variety of conditions, forming a dense turf that is deep rooting with fine, soft blades.
Eco-Lawn is the ultimate low maintenance lawn. This specially designed blend grows to form a dense turf on loam, well drained clay and even in infertile, dry soil. It thrives in full sun, part shade and even in deep shade conditions, forming a dense, low growing turf. Once established, it does not require the amount of water that typical grasses demand.
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As with any seeding, proper soil preparation is the key to success. The area to be planted should be as free of weeds as possible prior to installing new seed.
On steep, erosion prone slopes, Eco-Lawn should be mixed with with an annual rye nurse crop for rapid soil stabilization. When planting on slopes in the fall, plant no later than September 15th, to ensure sufficient growth of the nurse crop to hold the soil. On gentle slopes with no real potential for soil erosion, seeding with Eco-Lawn alone is fine.
When to seed?
The ideal time for you to plant your Eco-Lawn seed is between late August and late September, Labour Day Weekend is ideal. The cool evening temperatures, early morning dews and autumn rains create the perfect conditions for germination and growth. Also, nature has programmed fewer weeds to germinate in fall, so your new Eco-Lawn will establish more rapidly, with less weed competition.
Seeding from mid April through mid June is a good second choice. Apply the seed when soil temperatures reach 15°C (60°F). If you spread Eco-Lawn seed earlier in the spring, it will not germinate until the soil temperature reaches 15°C (60°F). Please note that most weeds germinate in spring and early summer and this will inevitably result in some weed competition with your Eco-Lawn. Once the Eco-Lawn is about 3 inches tall, weeds can be combated with corn gluten or other non-toxic controls. Investigate for appropriate options. The reason you don’t need to mow Eco-Lawn often is because it grows very slowly. Weeds will grow much faster and they can out-compete spring planted seedings. Spring seedings will also require watering daily for 15-30 minutes unless the soil is already damp. Water early in the morning only to prevent possible fungal diseases caused by late afternoon and evening watering. Once the newly planted area greens up, watering can be cut back to every 2 to 5 days depending on your soil type and weather conditions. Please note that if you experience drought conditions in the first year of growth, you will need to water your new Eco-Lawn during the first season of growth. Once Eco-Lawn has gone through a full season, you really shouldn’t have to water it ever again, except in extreme drought conditions.
In northern climates seeding Eco-Lawn via a late season “dormant seeding” can be done very successfully. Careful soil preparation, weed control and good timing are essential with dormant fall plantings. The seeds should be planted in the late fall or early winter after a couple of hard frosts but before the ground is frozen. Seed planted in late October through December will germinate early the following spring. If there is any chance of erosion, a dormant seeding is never recommended. Planted in fall, your new lawn will grow rapidly the following spring.
If you have an existing traditional lawn and wish to convert to a low maintenance Eco-Lawn you have a few options:
For a quick conversion, strip off the old lawn to a depth of 2 1/2 – 3 inches and remove it entirely. Then either lightly rototill the existing soil or give it a hard raking to create a seed bed. Then spread the seed, rake it into the soil and if possible, roll it flat with a lawn roller.
Another method is smother your existing lawn with 4 inches of new soil. This will kill off the old lawn underneath and you can simply spread your Eco-Lawn seed onto the new soil, rake it in and roll it. Please note that the drawback to this method is that when you purchase new soil, you have also just purchased someone else’s weeds! You’ll need to combat those weeds as described above. There is also a new “organic” vinegar based herbicide on the market called Elima-Weed that works well. Elima-Weed kills plants in three hours so you can get a quick jump start on the process whereas most non-organic herbicides like Round UP take about two weeks to achieve the full effect. Once your old lawn is dead, mow the dead grass as short as possible and then roughen the area by hard raking it. Then seed the area with Eco-Lawn or you can simply seed directly into the dead grass of your old lawn. If you opt to seed directly into the dead grass, please note that it will take about 8 weeks for your new Eco-Lawn to cover up the old dead grass and that your lawn will look brown during this period.
Simply overseeding an existing lawn with Eco-Lawn will not result in an instant conversion to a low maintenance Eco-Lawn as your existing lawn will continue to grow. However, if you were to overseed your old lawn each and every year for four to five years, it will become a true Eco-Lawn. In the meantime, you will need to regularly mow the existing lawn. So while this method will work, it does take time, patience and annual re-seeding.
Eco-Lawn, while quick to germinate, is a very slow growing grass that has a fine textured, dense, low-growing habit, so you don’t have to mow it if you don’t want to. Left unmown, over the course of a full growing season, Eco-Lawn’s grass blades will grow to about 9 inches long, but because the blades of Eco-Lawn are so fine, it falls over to about a 4 inch height creating Eco-Lawn’s gentle, flowing carpet-like appearance. If you prefer a more ‘cropped lawn look’, occasional mowing will be necessary. Mow Eco-Lawn no more than once a month to a height of 3 to 4 inches for a classic lawn look.
Roots grow down to 9 inches (22.86 cm) in hard pan clay soils and to 14 inches (35.56 cm) deep in sandy soils so Eco-Lawn can seek out needed nutrients and water naturally, eliminating the need for regular watering and fertilizing – perfect for areas where water conservation is important. Also recommended for establishing new lawns, erosion buffers and bank stabilizations.